Andy Graves
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| 18 Jul 2011 05:33 AM |
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Karran just finished a new video on how to install their Edge sink into solid surface.
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Norm Walters
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| 18 Jul 2011 11:37 PM |
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I'm sure having a little too much adhesive running inside of the sink when applied would be a good time removing when it got hard.  |
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Andy Graves
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| 19 Jul 2011 03:27 AM |
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I saw this done in person and the glue was actually scraped off with a sharp chesiel and nothing really happened to the stainless steel. After all was finished with the solid surface a ascotchbrite on a wheel was used to make the stainless new again.
Really worked well, I was pleasantly surprised. |
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| 19 Jul 2011 02:00 PM |
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Posted By Norm Walters on 18 Jul 2011 06:37 PM
I'm sure having a little too much adhesive running inside of the sink when applied would be a good time removing when it got hard. Norm: With the sink upside down when the adhesive sets up, how can the adhesive run up the side of the bowl? Joe |
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| 19 Jul 2011 02:10 PM |
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The video doesn't show using enough hot melt glue blocks. You want at least two on each long side of the sink so it cannot be adhered improperly. With the three blocks shown, that thing can wriggle all over town while clamping.
I would trace the outline of the sink on the back, come in the width of the flange and another 1/4", redraw the line, and rough out the cut-out with a jig saw. If that's a nylon bushing over the bearing and it pops off when you're hogging off a 5/8" thick bite, you'll play hell getting the mark out of the stainless when the metal bearing beneath the nylon hits the sink wall.
If you're feeling lucky, pay strict attention to the sound and feel of the router. If the nylon bearing cover pops off, you'll know it sooner rather than later.
I'd stick with the manufacturer-recommended bits too. A cheaper bit is much more likely to pop the nylon bushing. Amana and Velepec aren't cheap.
Joe |
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Andy Graves
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| 19 Jul 2011 03:49 PM |
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I use two blocks per side as well. Makes it a bit difficult to set the sink but once set, it will not wiggle. |
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Tom M
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| 19 Jul 2011 04:06 PM |
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My issue with those sink is the (sort of) bond between the stainless and the laminate top or solid surface. It may only be as thick as the stainless gauge size, but it is still lacking in permanence. |
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...those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience.
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Andy Graves
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| 19 Jul 2011 04:08 PM |
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Tom,
When I saw one installed, I would find it hard to believe that the adhesive would come out from between the stainless and laminate.
You are correct that it might not be truly adhered to the laminate, but I don't think that is the case. |
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John Christensen
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| 19 Jul 2011 04:32 PM |
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Posted By Andy Graves on 19 Jul 2011 10:49 AM
I use two blocks per side as well. Makes it a bit difficult to set the sink but once set, it will not wiggle.
Andy: When you use two blocks along either the front or the back. Place another block at each adjacent corner. If you place these blocks so that they are still on the radius of the corner then your sink will fit into the blocks with ease. Once you set the sink in place, glue another block at the center of the opposite side to hold it in place (or two blocks if it feels better for you). Johnny C |
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Peter Carpenter
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| 19 Jul 2011 08:39 PM |
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We put masking tape around the bowl before we glue it up so that excess glue doesnt run on to the bowl when glueing up and it stops some of the router marks on the bowl. We do not use nylon bearings because they always fail we only use steel bearings. |
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peterc@solidsurfaceofdistinction.com.au
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Andy Graves
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| 19 Jul 2011 10:03 PM |
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I don't much care for the nylon bearings either unless I am cutting a tiny amount off the sink opening. |
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Andy Graves
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| 19 Jul 2011 10:04 PM |
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Posted By John Christensen on 19 Jul 2011 11:32 AM
Posted By Andy Graves on 19 Jul 2011 10:49 AM
I use two blocks per side as well. Makes it a bit difficult to set the sink but once set, it will not wiggle.
Andy:
When you use two blocks along either the front or the back. Place another block at each adjacent corner. If you place these blocks so that they are still on the radius of the corner then your sink will fit into the blocks with ease. Once you set the sink in place, glue another block at the center of the opposite side to hold it in place (or two blocks if it feels better for you).
Johnny C
Good idea, thanks. |
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Norm Walters
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| 20 Jul 2011 03:52 AM |
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Posted By Kowboy on 19 Jul 2011 09:00 AM
Posted By Norm Walters on 18 Jul 2011 06:37 PM
I'm sure having a little too much adhesive running inside of the sink when applied would be a good time removing when it got hard. Norm:
With the sink upside down when the adhesive sets up, how can the adhesive run up the side of the bowl?
Joe
Joe, if it's close to the edge of the sink when you flip the sink over it will go in the bowl, done it myself.  |
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Tom M
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| 20 Jul 2011 02:14 PM |
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Andy,
The sample I have shows that the adhesive does not appear to be good between the stainless and the solid surface. I would assume the same for the laminate.
For the record, I like the solid surface to laminate application just fine, except the fact that the transition is terrible. |
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...those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience.
-C.S. Lewis |
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Andy Graves
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| 20 Jul 2011 03:08 PM |
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Do you mean 'Not Good' as in falling out or doesn't appear to be stuck to the material? |
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| 21 Jul 2011 01:45 PM |
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Norm:
It must be me, but I am not understanding.
Solid surface sheet on the bench, face down. Hot melt blocks in place. Adhesive on bowl flange and bowl clamped onto back of sheet. Twenty minutes later, adhesive has set up. You flip the top over, ready to rout the bowl.
How can adhesive defy the laws of gravity and creep up the sides of the upside down bowl?
What am I not understanding?
Joe |
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Tom M
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| 21 Jul 2011 01:56 PM |
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Andy,
I mean separating. The stainless is not consistently smooth. Your thumbnail can travel the whole seam. |
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...those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience.
-C.S. Lewis |
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Andy Graves
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| 21 Jul 2011 05:17 PM |
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I never noticed that. I will look a bit closer. |
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Norm Walters
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| 21 Jul 2011 10:22 PM |
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Posted By Kowboy on 21 Jul 2011 08:45 AM
Norm:
It must be me, but I am not understanding.
Solid surface sheet on the bench, face down. Hot melt blocks in place. Adhesive on bowl flange and bowl clamped onto back of sheet. Twenty minutes later, adhesive has set up. You flip the top over, ready to rout the bowl.
How can adhesive defy the laws of gravity and creep up the sides of the upside down bowl?
What am I not understanding?
Joe
You are right Joe, it's impossible, just like you.  |
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KCWOOD
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| 25 Jul 2011 12:48 AM |
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Posted By Peter Carpenter on 19 Jul 2011 03:39 PM
We put masking tape around the bowl before we glue it up so that excess glue doesnt run on to the bowl when glueing up and it stops some of the router marks on the bowl. We do not use nylon bearings because they always fail we only use steel bearings.
Peter.. I have never had a bearing fail since 1982. meaning lock up... Yes I have had bearings start to get slop in them, and those get replaced. I just don't get it. When anyone routes a edge, the most valuable piece of machinery is the bearing. When it goes, you are screwed. I lubricate mine before each use, and inspect it before each use. The only time I EVER had a "oh Sh*t. moment, I put a brand new bowl bit in, ran it for about 6 inches, the bearing feel off, and cut a groove. I called Andy as soon as it happened for a possible fix. Now, i will check the tightness of a bearing on a new bit. I lube mine with air tool lube.. Lubriplate i think is the name. Does as good as the bearing lube, plus I buy this in a gallon container... Still have a 1986 air sander going strong too.... :) |
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