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ForumFabrication, Installation, and RepairsSolid Surfacesubstrate for solid surface tub surrounds
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substrate for solid surface tub surrounds
Last Post 01 Sep 2010 09:42 PM by Peter Carpenter. 13 Replies.
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Norm Walters
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30 Aug 2010 09:23 PM
    I always use cement backer board (i.e. durorock, permabase, wonderboard) for tub surrounds and shower substrates when I will be installing ceramic tile. When installing solid surface panels does the silicone hold as well to the cement backer boards as it would greenboard, i.e. MR drywall?
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    Bill Wolle
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    30 Aug 2010 11:19 PM
    Norm, yes it grabs but is way expensive overkill. Saying that, there are some building codes requiring cement backer board in a shower, even if the SS does not need it. As always, check your code.
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    Norm Walters
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    30 Aug 2010 11:53 PM
    Thanks Bill, in this case in particular it would be a tub surround.
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    KCWOOD
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    31 Aug 2010 12:20 AM
    uh... not sure Norm.  I suggested siliconing in some ceramic tile on Durock until a front door arrived. The original door came in with the jamb damaged, so i suggested they silicone the tile in. About 3 days later the silicone had broken loose from the cement board. When I pulled a tile up and looked, about a 1/64" of the cement board had broken off.  I think the cement board is too flaky... ??? Just my 2 cents though???  I would go with green gyprock.. ( hey Peter)
    Norm Walters
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    31 Aug 2010 01:11 AM
    Thanks Kelsey. When doing a tub surround do you guys run a three inch wide or so piece of solid surface down the wall at the outside of the tub, or just make it part of the larger piece and hope it doesn't break when you install it. Or another option, do you just go the edge of the tub and hope no water gets outside the tub and runs down the drywall causing water damage?
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    KCWOOD
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    31 Aug 2010 01:25 AM
    I just go to the edge of the tub. If they will use the new curved shower curtain rod, it actually puts the curtain inside the radius of the tub corners, if you use a door then there will be about 3/4" of SS showing beyond the door. 

    If you use the green board, water will not bother it even if it does get wet.

    All my customers love their SS walls and have had no complaints.
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    31 Aug 2010 02:22 AM
    Posted By Kelsey Crisp on 30 Aug 2010 08:25 PM 

    If you use the green board, water will not bother it even if it does get wet.


    Kelsey:

    Not according to syndicated "Ask the Builder" columnist Tim Carter:

    "For example, I have had great success using this green board drywall behind sinks, toilets and on walls with ceramic tile back splashes. But I have had horrific failures when I have used it behind ceramic tile in tub and shower areas. Water and water vapor can readily pass through ceramic tile grout and cause the paper facing of the drywall to disintegrate. Water-resistant drywall is simply not recommended for areas that are subject to constant moisture."

    Joe
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    31 Aug 2010 10:53 AM
    Posted By Kowboy on 30 Aug 2010 09:22 PM
    Posted By Kelsey Crisp on 30 Aug 2010 08:25 PM 

    If you use the green board, water will not bother it even if it does get wet.


    Kelsey:

    Not according to syndicated "Ask the Builder" columnist Tim Carter:

    "For example, I have had great success using this green board drywall behind sinks, toilets and on walls with ceramic tile back splashes. But I have had horrific failures when I have used it behind ceramic tile in tub and shower areas. Water and water vapor can readily pass through ceramic tile grout and cause the paper facing of the drywall to disintegrate. Water-resistant drywall is simply not recommended for areas that are subject to constant moisture."

    Joe
    Once again the topic gets twisted so you will have something to post

    Joe, if you read the post, I was talking about the area outside the shower, Norm was talking cover with Solid Surface,  and green board "is"  ok for an occasional splash.  I grew up installing greenboard behind showers in the 70's, laying ceramic tile over it. Now 30 yeras later, i am replacing countertops in some of those homes my family built and have torn out and replaced the very bathrooms I installed years ago, for solid surface surrounds. The problems I have run into is the floor around the tub, not the green board.
    I have torn out many showers to find ceramic over plain drywall, all looked great, except around the faucets, the mold in the grout. If ceramic is laid right, which I guess he couldn't do since he admitted more than one failure, it holds up pretty good.

    I'm not sure why you would post an argumentative reply, oh yes I do, it seems to be the nature of everything that comes after the words, Joe, Loosedeckcannon, Trebuchet, Kowboy.

    It's amazing how so many who could not make it in their trade, suddenly overnight can become a consultant or expert in that field.


    Geez...





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    31 Aug 2010 01:13 PM
    Kelsey:

    I took your suggestion and reread this thread, especially the title. In his first post, Norm asks: “When installing solid surface panels does the silicone hold as well to the cement backer boards as it would greenboard, i.e. MR drywall?” In his third post Norm makes clear he is talking about a tub surround job.

    To which you replied: “uh... not sure Norm... I think the cement board is too flaky... I would go with green gyprock..”

    Norm then asks if readers run solid surface walls past the tub or not and you reply: “If you use the green board, water will not bother it even if it does get wet.”

    I posted the real life experiences of a builder who suffered failures using greenboard in a tub/shower surround. Clearly, it is inaccurate and disingenuous to portray my post as “twisting”. Argumentative? Absolutely and unapologetically. That’s why we’re here, to exchange ideas and learn from each other.

    If you want an example of amazing, try posters who consistently make false allegations against other participants as a distraction because they can’t dispute the scientific fact that grout is water and water vapor permeable regardless of how the tile is laid.
     
    Perhaps the contractor from Kentucky knows more about this subject than Georgia Pacific, a major manufacturer of tile backing material:

    "Q: What is the difference between DensGuard tile backer and greenboard?

    A: Greenboard is a paper-faced, moisture-resistant product no longer listed in the International Residential Code (IRC) or International Building Codes (IBC) for use in wet areas. DensGuard tile backer has fiberglass mats rather than paper, which removes a potential food source for mold. Also the core has been engineered to provide a greater moisture resistance than greenboard and in addition there is a moisture barrier on the face to help prevent moisture from entering the wall cavity. Finally DensGuard meets ASTM C1178 which is listed in the IRC and IBC code for use in direct wet areas."

    If, after having read this thread, a reader decides to use greenboard in a tub/shower application he deserves everything he gets.

    Joe
    Tom M
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    31 Aug 2010 04:09 PM
    We have installed solid surface wall sheets since the 70's. We have adhered it over exterior plywood, green board and cement board. As far as I can remember, we have had a total of two call backs. One when upon following the advice of the manufacturer (in the reeeeaaaal early days) to install a recessed soap dish like they did with tile installations, a leak developed and ran across the wall sheet and down towards an exterior wall, where the solid surface actually warped, and the other where a seat failed and was easily fixed.

    The best advice I ever got was to leave the air gap above the flange. Other than that, I's say fit the sheets, back bevel at the deck for better silicone sealant, and you should do fine.

    As for decks, that's tougher, as so many different situation call for different solutions, but either exterior ply or cement board should do the job. Whenever possible, we install the deck using two U shaped pieces and two straight.

    I hope this helps.
    ...those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience.

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    Norm Walters
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    31 Aug 2010 10:15 PM

    I think the DensGuard or Denshield by another manufacturer is probably the best thing going as a substrate for any application. Getting off the subject a bit I always use cement backer board for tile installations along with a product from Laticrete called Hydroban. Hydroban is a liquid waterproofing membrane that can be water tested after 24 hours. I've found that the cement backer boards, although impervious to damage from water, do actually absorb water causing tile grout to grow mold, especially on a mosaic tile shower floor.

    I have replaced tiled showers than were only five years old, most of them failed because the tile guys screwed  cement backer board to the inside of the curb through the shower pan liner. The correct way to do a curb on a tile application is to nail paper backed lathe on the outside of the curb, bend it over into the inside of the curb, and when the mortar bed is installed it will hold it in place.

    Back to the original post, I think I will probably use Denshield as the substrate for the tub surround, extending beyond the tub approx. 3 inches, mostly because I don't like the idea of green board next to the outside of the tub, it's moisture resistant, not moisture proof.

    One other tip, you can paint a bathroom with two coats of oil based primer (kilz) before applying a latex top coat to make it more moisture resistant.

    www.normwaltersconstruction.com
    Peter Carpenter
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    31 Aug 2010 10:48 PM
    I have spoken about this before on another thread, it doesn't matter what material you use behing the tiles or ss so long as it is approved in your area and if you water proof it. We use Water-based polyurethane-acrylic waterproofing membrane developed for high performance under-tile waterproofing on the walls and floors with a Coving Bandage applied on cracks greater than 6mm. Applied with a fluted roller, it is used as a reinforcement for membranes. I am doing a bathroom toilet and laundry soon so I will post some pics.
    peterc@solidsurfaceofdistinction.com.au


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    Norm Walters
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    01 Sep 2010 11:23 AM
    Posted By Peter Carpenter on 31 Aug 2010 05:48 PM
    I have spoken about this before on another thread, it doesn't matter what material you use behing the tiles or ss so long as it is approved in your area and if you water proof it. We use Water-based polyurethane-acrylic waterproofing membrane developed for high performance under-tile waterproofing on the walls and floors with a Coving Bandage applied on cracks greater than 6mm. Applied with a fluted roller, it is used as a reinforcement for membranes. I am doing a bathroom toilet and laundry soon so I will post some pics.


    Peter, you are exactly right, in a perfect world. In my state the waterproofing is commonly overlooked as a cost saving measure, more so nowadays. Penny wise, dollar foolish but that seems to be the status quo.

    As far as what is required by local building codes, in Florida the only inspection is either a tub set or a shower pan liner inspection. What happens after that is anyone's guess because the next inspection is a final when everything is painted over or tiled over. This goes for new construction or remodeling.
    www.normwaltersconstruction.com
    Peter Carpenter
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    01 Sep 2010 09:42 PM
    Norm I did the water proofing course and now am licensed to do water proofing so before I install any solid surface in a wet area I water proof the whole area, not just the area that the authorities say is a minimum, just to cover my self.
    peterc@solidsurfaceofdistinction.com.au


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