So we were in a hurry trying to get a couple cove countertops finished for a customer.  They needed it ASAP and of course we have other stuff to do so now we are in a bind.

But we push ahead and glue the counter along with the splash as quickly as possible.  I didn't take the time to check it while it was being made, but what could possibly go wrong?

Showed up the next morning to see glue lines everywhere.  The first picture shows the worst of the bunch and yes that is an actual 1/8" wide glue line.  It was if we had never made a counter before and this was just a test run.

So I spent the next day screwing around with it to make it look like the quality countertop my customer expects.  You will see the repair on the larger glue line.  We eventually cut all the splash off the counter and started over.

What a mess.

Sorry to hear that Andy good repair though. How cum you guy's don't use mixer taps over there 1 whole only not 3 ?

Posted By Peter Carpenter on 27 Aug 2010 03:19 AM
Sorry to hear that Andy good repair though. How cum you guy's don't use mixer taps over there 1 whole only not 3 ?

Hey Peter, I am not sure what mixer taps.

Posted By Andy Graves on 27 Aug 2010 10:35 AM

Posted By Peter Carpenter on 27 Aug 2010 03:19 AM
Sorry to hear that Andy good repair though. How cum you guy's don't use mixer taps over there 1 whole only not 3 ?

Hey Peter, I am not sure what mixer taps.

Andy:

Sometimes you have to read what the poster meant, not what he typed. I'll bet Peter typed t-"a"-p-s when he meant to type t-i-p-s.

It's good to see someone else besides me post their screw-ups. Nice save.

Wouldn't it have been easier to chuck a straight bit in the Betterly, hot melt a blocking fence off the front and just v-groove the wide glue line out and refill?

Joe

Andy -
Do you guys not put any kind of scribe strip at the top of the backsplash, is it just not on there yet, or is it on there and it's just really thin?

Andy...keep the fat glue lines there and charge them extra for inlay.....the mixer taps I thinks hes talkin about are the three holes in ur top meaning the faucet holes, we take a little longer to simplfy our faucets over here...Then europeans design stuff so fast without all the red tape we hafta go thru..

Posted By Kowboy on 27 Aug 2010 11:14 AM

Posted By Andy Graves on 27 Aug 2010 10:35 AM

Posted By Peter Carpenter on 27 Aug 2010 03:19 AM
Sorry to hear that Andy good repair though. How cum you guy's don't use mixer taps over there 1 whole only not 3 ?

Hey Peter, I am not sure what mixer taps.

Andy:

Sometimes you have to read what the poster meant, not what he typed. I'll bet Peter typed t-"a"-p-s when he meant to type t-i-p-s.

It's good to see someone else besides me post their screw-ups. Nice save.

Wouldn't it have been easier to chuck a straight bit in the Betterly, hot melt a blocking fence off the front and just v-groove the wide glue line out and refill?

Joe

This method works really well.  I don't like to change bits in my cove router very often so I have used a PC Laminate trimmer with an adjustable base set at 45 deg.  attach a guide fence to the top using hot melt that allows the tip of the bit to cut the center of the fat glue seam.  The depth of the cut can be anywhere from about 1/8" to 1/4" or so.   I was going to post photos of this method but I am currenty unable to post photos without getting an error message from the wew site.  Andy?

Johnny C

We have been using mixer taps for may be 15 years or more in Australia.

Posted By John Christensen on 27 Aug 2010 12:07 PM

Posted By Kowboy on 27 Aug 2010 11:14 AM

Posted By Andy Graves on 27 Aug 2010 10:35 AM

Posted By Peter Carpenter on 27 Aug 2010 03:19 AM
Sorry to hear that Andy good repair though. How cum you guy's don't use mixer taps over there 1 whole only not 3 ?

Hey Peter, I am not sure what mixer taps.

Andy:

Sometimes you have to read what the poster meant, not what he typed. I'll bet Peter typed t-"a"-p-s when he meant to type t-i-p-s.

It's good to see someone else besides me post their screw-ups. Nice save.

Wouldn't it have been easier to chuck a straight bit in the Betterly, hot melt a blocking fence off the front and just v-groove the wide glue line out and refill?

Joe

This method works really well.  I don't like to change bits in my cove router very often so I have used a PC Laminate trimmer with an adjustable base set at 45 deg.  attach a guide fence to the top using hot melt that allows the tip of the bit to cut the center of the fat glue seam.  The depth of the cut can be anywhere from about 1/8" to 1/4" or so.   I was going to post photos of this method but I am currenty unable to post photos without getting an error message from the wew site.  Andy?

Johnny C

I ended up with some very noticable glue lines in this Corian White Cap job.  Difficult to make out in this photo but  it is between the arrows.






Instead of disturbing my cove router set up I used a tilt base on my lam. trimmer with a 1/4" bit.  I hot melted a guide fence to the deck at the appropriate distance so that the corner of the bit cut at the glue line.  The router was set to a depth that created about a 3/16" wide cut.  Tip the rounter into the material and push along fence making sure to stay tight against the fence.


Cut a 1/4" square piece of material and sand the end to match the radius of the groove at the end.


I use 1/8" strips of scrap hot melted to the deck under tension to provide pressure to glue the patch in place.  Be sure that you have squeeze out everywhere.


Run the cove router again and sand as normal.  This patch turned out as good as a normal cove seam.  I doubt that you could find it if you didn't know where to look.


Johnny C

Not only is that a great way to fix the cove line, the way you use leverage to clamp parts is incredible. Your like a countertop engineer.

Thanks for the ideas for future "Big, Fat Glue lines".

Nice fixes all.

And btw, what we now call a faucet was called a tap in the past.

Ooops.

This time I had about a 5" section of  seam that was on the verticle portion of the cove.  I was at near the end of a tube of adhesive and I began to get sputtering in the glue bead.  Thought that I went over it again and mixed well.  When I got to finishing I noticed a white line.  Turned out to be adhesive that didn't cure.  I don't think that it will show up at this resolution.


It is between 10" and 15".  Most pronounced at 12".


I used the same method as before, except this time the router will be held against the verticle side of the splash.


If you are very carefull and keep the router against your guide, you will end up with a very tidy "V" groove that will remove the objectionable seam line.


Fit and glue a nice narrow 1/4" x 1/4" with the ends rounded to fir the radius of the cut ends.  Again, scrap pieces of material work great to apply pressure.


The patch was undetectable to the eye.  The pencil swirls were just to give the camera a focal depth.


Until next time,
Johnny C

Nice fix. Better than cutting the whole thing out.

Did you tilt the router bit down into the splash to start and stop?

Posted By Andy Graves on 07 Oct 2010 02:48 PM
Nice fix. Better than cutting the whole thing out.

Did you tilt the router bit down into the splash to start and stop?

Thanks, Andy.  Yes.

This is what the FabNet is all about. Nice work Johnny.

How did you come up with using the strips to apply tension?

Thanks, Chad.
Basically the strips are just an extension of the spring clamps reach.  I have used various versions of the idea for many years.  The strips work really well in this case because they don't impart any twist or roll to the patch insert.

Johnny C

Nice work!

Posted By Chad Thomas on 07 Oct 2010 04:05 PM
This is what the FabNet is all about. Nice work Johnny.

How did you come up with using the strips to apply tension?

Chad:

If you notice, Johnny has just enough glue squeeze-out. Enough that you can see complete coverage, but not enough to drip all over. Plus, the strips aren't excessively long. If you had too long of strips and excessive glue, you'd glue the strips to the splash and have a mess to grind off.

Joe