The FabNet® Forum
Cove Backsplash Butcherblock
Last Post 04 Sep 2009 09:47 PM by Steve Mehan. 18 Replies.
AddThis - Bookmarking and Sharing Button Printer Friendly
  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  
Sort:
PrevPrev NextNext
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Author Messages
Steve Mehan
Advanced Member
Advanced Member

Avatar

Private Messenger:
Posts: 462


--
21 May 2009 01:37 PM



    Here are a few shop pics of a butcher block we did with a cove backsplash.
    I have customers ask all the time if it can be done. When I say yes they just about all go for it.







    Brian Stone
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 831


    --
    21 May 2009 04:23 PM
    It looks like good craftsmanship but I just don't like the look of butcherblock.

    I think the coved backsplash reminds me even more of all of the nasty laminate butcher block out there.
    Wayne
    Basic Member
    Basic Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 179


    --
    21 May 2009 05:42 PM
    We do butcherblock.
    We do coves.
    We've never put 2&2 together.
    Thanks Steve for the idea!
    Brian Stone
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 831


    --
    21 May 2009 05:56 PM
    Why did you use solid pieces for the backsplashes instead of doing "butcherblock" on that section too?
    Steve Mehan
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 462


    --
    21 May 2009 06:01 PM
    Thanks guys,

    We do a fair amount of them. Mostly maple & oak. The one pictured had a drop in sink but usually we do undermounts.
    A lot of our customers do center islands in the butcher block.
    One job I did I no sooner put in the island in and the home owner took out the bread and made a sandwich and yes the knife came out as well. Hey thats what it's ment for.
    Steve Mehan
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 462


    --
    21 May 2009 06:04 PM
    Posted By Brian_Stone on 21 May 2009 11:56 AM
    Why did you use solid pieces for the backsplashes instead of doing "butcherblock" on that section too?


    I've done it both ways, but most people said they would prefer the solid board.
    Steve Mehan
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 462


    --
    21 May 2009 06:42 PM
    Center island with undermount











    Jon Olson
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 3341


    --
    22 May 2009 01:02 PM
    Steve nice work. A couple of questions
     
    1-How do you handle warping problems? Isn't there a suggestion way to store butcher block?
     
    2-How do you install BB? I've been told that if you screw the top down like a laminate top the wood will crack.
     
    Steve Mehan
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 462


    --
    22 May 2009 06:15 PM
    Jon,

    On large pieces like this island, I will rout a channel in the bottom and insert a 1" piece of square box steel. I will drill oversized holes in the steel for screws to allow for expansion and contraction, and then place a few screws in the bottom of the BB. I always use this when I have overhangs. 

    When I install them I will again drill an oversized hole in the corner blocks for the screws. Again I do not tighten them, I leave a little play for expansion and contraction. It doesnt take many screws to keep it in place.

    If both sides are not sealed they will warp. But once they are sealed there fine.
    I do three different finishes. Minerial Oil, Tung Oil, or Urethane. Some finishes are better suited then others depending on what the customers use will be.





    Andy Graves


    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 10033


    --
    22 May 2009 08:06 PM
    Fancy top. Do you construct the cove on wood like you do on solid surface? Seem this would be a nice, profitable upgrade.
    FabNet Administrator
    andy@thefabricatornetwork.com
    Countertop Company - www.OliveMill.com
    Test
    Steve Mehan
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 462


    --
    02 Sep 2009 11:54 PM

    Maple BB with Tung Oil Finish













    John Christensen
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 1573


    --
    02 Sep 2009 11:59 PM
    Very nice work Steve.  How do you make certain that water will not become an issue over time at the seam?

    Johnny C
    Johnny C
    Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/SolidSurfaceTechnologies


    e-mail: john@sstcounters.com
    Steve Mehan
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 462


    --
    03 Sep 2009 12:12 AM
    Johnny,

    With this seam I have used Titebond 3 and have done many over the years with no problems with water. This top is finished with 6 coats of waterlox tung oil and buffed with a grey scotchbrite, the end grain is also sealed well with 6 coats. I spline the seam and use draw bolts below.
    Andy Graves


    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 10033


    --
    03 Sep 2009 01:26 AM
    Do you sand the seam like you would with solid surface? The cove on the wood is a really cool idea.
    FabNet Administrator
    andy@thefabricatornetwork.com
    Countertop Company - www.OliveMill.com
    Test
    Steve Mehan
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 462


    --
    03 Sep 2009 01:50 AM
    Andy,
    Yes I do block sand it with 80 grit to give the glue a little better adhesion and the spline which fits tight  keeps the two pieces flat. With the draw bolts tightend up they act as a permenent clamp.
    Andy Graves


    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 10033


    --
    04 Sep 2009 01:34 AM
    Sorry about that, I mean do you glue the seam and then sand the deck to make the seam disappear?
    FabNet Administrator
    andy@thefabricatornetwork.com
    Countertop Company - www.OliveMill.com
    Test
    Steve Mehan
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 462


    --
    04 Sep 2009 02:07 AM
    The mitered seams I do that way, the field seam I prep in the shop the same way sand smooth, the apply the finish and then disassemble.
    John Christensen
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 1573


    --
    04 Sep 2009 07:14 PM
    What is the reason for mitering the backsplash section?  Just curious.

    Johnny C
    Johnny C
    Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/SolidSurfaceTechnologies


    e-mail: john@sstcounters.com
    Steve Mehan
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 462


    --
    04 Sep 2009 09:47 PM
    Posted By Johnny C on 04 Sep 2009 01:14 PM
    What is the reason for mitering the backsplash section?  Just curious.

    Johnny C


    Johnny,

    I just figured I would have a nicer joint. Nothing else.
    You are not authorized to post a reply.


    FabNet Forum Rules

    These Forums are dedicated to any discussion that interest the Surface Fabricator.

    Please read the following rules.  Posting, reading and participating on TheFabricatorNetwork.com, you automatically agree to the following rules.  They periodically change so please read them frequently.  Because the rules change at our discretion, post at your own discretion.  The Fabricator Network.com can not control the content of the information posted.  We do not guarantee the accuracy or integrity of any information posted. 

    Under no circumstances will The Fabricator Network.com its owners, directors, and/or operators be liable in any way for any content, including, but not limited to, any errors or omissions in any content, or for any loss or damage of any kind incurred as a result of the use of any content posted, emailed or otherwise transmitted via the forum.  Full Legal 'Terms of Use'

    For the benefit of the community and to protect the integrity of the project, please observe the following posting guidelines:

    1. NO ADVERTISING or PROMOTION of products by anyone other than sponsors and advertisers of the FabNet.
    2. "FOR SALE" section is only for used equipment, closeout or advertiser and sponsor specials.
    3. Vendors and Manufacturers are prohibited from posting, commenting or discussing a competitors product in a negative way.  Negative comments toward other vendors or manufacturers will be grounds for an immediate ban from the forum.
    4. Only Advertisers/Sponsors may post their Avatar logo next to their name.  Other vendors may only use their website URL and/or their email address.
    5. Except for "FabNet Lounge", please stay on topic. Post that do not stay on topic will be removed from thread.
    6. No Profanity, Racism, or Prejudice.
    7. Site Moderators have the final word on approving/removing a thread, post or comment.
    8. Be Respectful of others.
    9. Must use a valid email address.
    10. If you want to comment or review a product you must sign the post with your real name or company name.
    11. Pricing, percentages and profit margins are prohibited and will be edited.  The remainder of the post will remain intact.

    Penalty for violating FabNet rules:

    • 1st  Incident - Verbal or email warning. (Racism will result in an automatic ban)
    • 2nd  Incident - 30 day ban from posting.
    • 3rd  Incident - 6 month ban from posting.
    • 4th  Incident - Lifetime ban