The FabNet® Forum
Copper Counters
Last Post 08 Oct 2015 02:30 AM by j. smith. 13 Replies.
AddThis - Bookmarking and Sharing Button Printer Friendly
  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  
Sort:
PrevPrev NextNext
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Author Messages
David Gerard
Veteran Member
Veteran Member

Avatar

Private Messenger:
Posts: 3418


--
20 Jan 2009 08:09 PM
    Anyone have any experience with copper sheet metal on counters?

    My customer wants to try this, I brought out the Avonite copper series and suggested we use it for edging to compliment the top surface, I thought to slightly arch the top an extend the height a fizzy fuzz as a "no drip" edge.      As for a sink I'm thinking a copper farm sink with a section of the Avonite about 5' long around the sink area, better than copper turning green in time .  This is a very clean couple with no kids so I imagine they will take care of such a .....vunerable surface.  Thought?   Thanks,  DG
    insomnia crossed with dyslexia and atheist beliefs may lead one to lay awake all night wondering if there really is a "Dog"
    Andy Graves


    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 10029


    --
    20 Jan 2009 11:41 PM
    Let me get this straight. You are doing a copper countertop that is incorporated into an Avonite Copper Series edge?

    If this is the case, you may need to do something along the leading edge of the counter. Cooper series is not real strong and if you bring the cooper over the Avonite, it will end up being a sharp edge.

    What are you going to do where the Avonite meets the copper?
    FabNet Administrator
    andy@thefabricatornetwork.com
    Countertop Company - www.OliveMill.com
    Test
    Gene McDonald
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 1991


    --
    21 Jan 2009 03:14 AM
    sounds like fun David...are you putting the copper on plywood...use sandi ply so if you distress it..the sandi ply underneath is softer...beat it with a chain in all directions looks cool and will hide scratches...then the avonite is gonna be like a bar rail that the copper laminated to the wood slots right into it...is that how your doing it???
    if you roundover the wood, you can also beat it to shape...but then the avonite might not make it into the project

    sounds awesome...take pictures..
    www.RefreshInteriorsDesign.com
    David Gerard
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 3418


    --
    21 Jan 2009 04:45 PM

    Andy,  I was thinking to extend the copper sheet out about an 1/8 then let it in to the ss edging into a slot.  This would offer a mechanical connection at the edge rather than just glue and the need for any fasteners.   The SS would extend upward past the top surface slightly to offer the no drip.   I thought to do it that way rather than try and create a flush surface with materials that move with temp.

    Gene, this gent loves the Avonite material.  I have skinned doors with copper in the past so I am optimistic that it will work, as for the distress,  in time normal use will take care of that.  This is going into a log place so the splash will be Avonite and get the same slot idea to secure the back edge, then the very top of the splash will get a large scribe to edge to address the taper of the logs.      

    Finishing log places are a pain,  one has to allow for radical movement and settling of the logs.  Luckily these logs are well seasoned and the structure has been built at the log site prior to delivery.  Should be very interesting  in any case.    Any recomendations on glue type ect.  ?

    insomnia crossed with dyslexia and atheist beliefs may lead one to lay awake all night wondering if there really is a "Dog"
    David Gerard
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 3418


    --
    21 Jan 2009 06:55 PM
    I remembered I took a pic of the doors.  I used construcion adhesive in the can form on these. So far so good with adhesion.  These are subjected to the salty marine environment as well as extreme temps and sun light.   The wood is  reclaimed fir of an old barge deck and the door cores are solid core ext flat doors that were const doors.  The astrical is copper pipe split and fastened to fir.
    insomnia crossed with dyslexia and atheist beliefs may lead one to lay awake all night wondering if there really is a "Dog"
    Gene McDonald
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 1991


    --
    22 Jan 2009 12:15 AM
    Dats what Im talking about...whoah David...I like that...is that sheet metal copper of chemetal/ thats looks great  ..
    www.RefreshInteriorsDesign.com
    Andy Graves


    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 10029


    --
    22 Jan 2009 12:53 AM
    David,

    I like that idea alot.  That way it will keep the copper locked in place.  Is the edge going to be 1" thick and an 1 1/2" tall?
    FabNet Administrator
    andy@thefabricatornetwork.com
    Countertop Company - www.OliveMill.com
    Test
    Wags
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 2109


    --
    23 Jan 2009 02:00 AM
    Chemmetal is not a product you want to use outdoors. Most of their product is aluminum made to look like other materials. They do have some solid metals but most are made for verticle surfaces only. David you do some really unique installations, ^5, great job.
    Eli Polite
    Basic Member
    Basic Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 346


    --
    25 Jan 2009 03:14 AM
    sounds like a nice project i have seen the stainless steel ones so i guess it is not that far off to do copper
    Lenny E
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 4254


    --
    28 Jan 2009 06:56 AM
    Excellent Work David! Pure Magic!

    We may have to call you David "Copper "Field"  , in light of your recent accomplishments. All joking and kidding aside, that was great work!

    Kudos

    Lenny
    David Gerard
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 3418


    --
    28 Jan 2009 07:44 AM
    cough...cough...snort....snort!      A big slug of Bridge Port IPA  just shot out of my nose!      

    Thanks Lenny,  you berry funny man too!!!
    insomnia crossed with dyslexia and atheist beliefs may lead one to lay awake all night wondering if there really is a "Dog"
    Un-Authorized
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 2922


    --
    28 Jan 2009 11:30 PM
    Posted By David G. on 28 Jan 2009 01:44 AM
    cough...cough...snort....snort!      A big slug of Bridge Port IPA  just shot out of my nose!      

    Thanks Lenny,  you berry funny man too!!!

    David:

    At the risk of more liquid out your nose, perhaps this can help with your copper countertop caper.

    Kowboy
    SherlyMalloy
    New Member
    New Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 3


    --
    29 May 2014 08:30 AM
    We have used latex caulking to attach our faux granite sink to our counters. We have used a damn cloth for cleaning neither acetone nor anything else.
    j. smith
    New Member
    New Member

    Avatar

    Private Messenger:
    Posts: 42


    --
    08 Oct 2015 02:30 AM
    I know im a couple years late, but....Ive done a restaurant bar in copper..... put a clear epoxy coating over it....
    I don't think I've ever been more "aware" than I am right after hitting my hand with a hammer....
    You are not authorized to post a reply.


    FabNet Forum Rules

    These Forums are dedicated to any discussion that interest the Surface Fabricator.

    Please read the following rules.  Posting, reading and participating on TheFabricatorNetwork.com, you automatically agree to the following rules.  They periodically change so please read them frequently.  Because the rules change at our discretion, post at your own discretion.  The Fabricator Network.com can not control the content of the information posted.  We do not guarantee the accuracy or integrity of any information posted. 

    Under no circumstances will The Fabricator Network.com its owners, directors, and/or operators be liable in any way for any content, including, but not limited to, any errors or omissions in any content, or for any loss or damage of any kind incurred as a result of the use of any content posted, emailed or otherwise transmitted via the forum.  Full Legal 'Terms of Use'

    For the benefit of the community and to protect the integrity of the project, please observe the following posting guidelines:

    1. NO ADVERTISING or PROMOTION of products by anyone other than sponsors and advertisers of the FabNet.
    2. "FOR SALE" section is only for used equipment, closeout or advertiser and sponsor specials.
    3. Vendors and Manufacturers are prohibited from posting, commenting or discussing a competitors product in a negative way.  Negative comments toward other vendors or manufacturers will be grounds for an immediate ban from the forum.
    4. Only Advertisers/Sponsors may post their Avatar logo next to their name.  Other vendors may only use their website URL and/or their email address.
    5. Except for "FabNet Lounge", please stay on topic. Post that do not stay on topic will be removed from thread.
    6. No Profanity, Racism, or Prejudice.
    7. Site Moderators have the final word on approving/removing a thread, post or comment.
    8. Be Respectful of others.
    9. Must use a valid email address.
    10. If you want to comment or review a product you must sign the post with your real name or company name.
    11. Pricing, percentages and profit margins are prohibited and will be edited.  The remainder of the post will remain intact.

    Penalty for violating FabNet rules:

    • 1st  Incident - Verbal or email warning. (Racism will result in an automatic ban)
    • 2nd  Incident - 30 day ban from posting.
    • 3rd  Incident - 6 month ban from posting.
    • 4th  Incident - Lifetime ban