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ForumFabrication, Installation, and RepairsWoodRadius Oak veneer Fixture
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Radius Oak veneer Fixture
Last Post 04 Nov 2008 11:23 PM by Eli Polite. 12 Replies.
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Gene McDonald
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30 Oct 2008 10:30 AM
    this was a fun thing to do for and now realize all the forms people have been using for Solid Surface thermoforming can now be wrapped in Veneer and sold as wood fixtures for Retail stores, etc.....whaddya think Jon? go green by putting veneer on all your molds....



      the inside was open for Fiber optics to run to the desired points of interest on the map of the Indian land...I also wrapped the Green mica around which was a compound wrap...that was the hard part, didnt realize that either at the time. that Compound wrap with "NON-Forgiving" mica is a difficulty section, so fabnetters up the money if any of youse bid a fixture like this...

    www.gotgreencountertops.com
    Jon Olson
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    30 Oct 2008 11:51 AM
    Gene that is awesome! Nice work. If you look at our molds most of the time we use Birch Plywood. Green stuff of course.
    Operations/Production Manager

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    Karl Crooks
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    30 Oct 2008 03:13 PM

     

     

    Looking good Gene !


    RESTORE ~ RENEW ~ REJOICE !
    Kowboy
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    30 Oct 2008 03:28 PM

    Gene:

    Very nice indeed.

    While my talents as a fabricator may have earned me a spot as a floorsweeper at Sterling Surfaces, you, sir, have clearly earned a bench of your own.

    Joe

    ...One ought to choose likely impossibilities in preference to unconvincing possibilities.- Aristotle
    Eli Polite
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    30 Oct 2008 03:43 PM
    nice work did you vacume bag it or use contact cement and a roler
    Gene McDonald
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    31 Oct 2008 02:56 AM
    Eli...the ole contact cement anda press block...I was taught never roll veneer with a j roller.  I use the press blocks that can planed down from time to time..and when laminate veneer ya hafta break the yolks of the glue WITH A MICA SCRAPER or when you press it the venneer will break the glue yolk and delaMINATION BEGINS now i would use a vacuum press though
    www.gotgreencountertops.com
    Gene McDonald
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    31 Oct 2008 10:48 AM
    Oh yeah guys, most importantly, Thanx for the compliments...Andy can ya put the EDIT bitton on the wood section..I blabbed my butt off and forgot to addresss the compliments, and especially like it if iy doesnt have proper english...thanx again, im sure this section is gonna be educational

    now why is the dit button just on my post? dats weird
    www.gotgreencountertops.com
    David Gerard
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    31 Oct 2008 04:31 PM
    Gene,  your tanlets have no boundries!   Great stuff!  Consider this thread   your "My Space"     BTW  if it get too much I will simply hit the little yellow triangle button.    Excuse me for now ,  I need to go burn my shop and all thats in it.        I will save the walnut burl  veneer though, I need it for my arch top.
    insomnia crossed with dyslexia and atheist beliefs may lead one to lay awake all night wondering if there really is a "Dog"
    Andy Graves
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    04 Nov 2008 05:01 AM
    We would lose so much money on something like that.  Looks nice and I think I have seen something like that before at a museum.
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    Eli Polite
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    04 Nov 2008 09:00 PM
    i have never used contact cement i don't think it is a wise choice for veneer most finishes will dissolve it or at minimum damage the rubber bond i just asked because i see a lot of people taking the fast way out and using contact cement on pr backed veneer IMO hot hide glue is the best.

    it also has to do with the grain of the veneer sometimes a pva glue is best because it has a little bit of flexibility and sometimes an urea glue is best because there is no flex

    you also have to worry about how much glue you apply bleed through can cause problems so by adding nut shell flower to your glue and using a stiff roller to apply it will help greatly as well as letting it tack up a little before applying the veneer and bagging it i prefer the vacume press its a much more even way of applying pressure
    Gene McDonald
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    04 Nov 2008 10:26 PM
    Eli. I agree with you as I have said I would now vacuum it...but sometimes availability and time cannot allow the vacuum press...veneering with contact cement is reall difficult...for most its not the fast way out ....of course if someone trys it you have to be a good laminator...i always said its easy to veneer than to laminate mica...you at least can sand the veneer and sand out scratches.. I also used that backer on the veneer too..
     
    but that has been done and installed along time ago and got pais for it..
    ..what workx for some in the exhibit business is not neccessarily Fine wood woodworking....its fine...to say it wasnt wise is kinda close minded eh?


    when glueing it up folks with laminate glue after you spray it with glue, make sure you scrap down your globs..what i like to call 'Breaking the yolks"..if you put on the veneer over the yolk and press it it will open the yolk full of basically thinner and delaminate a bubble in the veneer...radius applications are more difficult as well..


    this is just a way if your doing exhibit fixtures to get it done quicker...it also is alot riskier than what you would read in veneer books...

    just keep in mind this is not a normal practice of fine woodworking with block planes and stuffbe careful if you try this at home folks
    www.gotgreencountertops.com
    Eli Polite
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    04 Nov 2008 11:22 PM
    whats a block plain ??????
    Eli Polite
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    04 Nov 2008 11:23 PM
    that was a joke
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