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| 14 Aug 2008 07:10 PM |
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I'm removing a granite top tomorrow morning, cabinets are being replaced from water damage. I didn't install this job and haven't seen it yet, but the lady says the seam is at the sink.
Any tips on how to break this apart? After removing the sink, I plan to dremel the unseen parts of the seam and apply heat to soften the adhesive. Hope they didn't rod this one.
She is signing that there is no gaurantee against breakage. Any other tips?
Joe |
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Karl Crooks
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| 14 Aug 2008 07:12 PM |
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Joe we have done this many times I will email you some photos on what we do. |
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RESTORE ~ RENEW ~ REJOICE !
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Karl Crooks
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| 14 Aug 2008 07:53 PM |
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Joe you got mail.... let me know if you have any questions and feel free to call me  |
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RESTORE ~ RENEW ~ REJOICE !
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| 14 Aug 2008 08:59 PM |
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Posted By Karl Crooks on 08/14/2008 2:53 PM
Joe you got mail.... let me know if you have any questions and feel free to call me  Karl: I got them and thanks! Joe |
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Wilson Chen
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| 15 Aug 2008 01:36 AM |
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it's wonderful for you Joe . You got useful advice here . |
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Brian Stone
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| 15 Aug 2008 12:01 PM |
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Heat and a dremel is the way to go. Chances are that if there is a seam there isn't a rod. For there to be a rod they would have to assemble the seam and then put the rod in on site. |
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| 16 Aug 2008 12:44 AM |
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I forgot my camera, so I had to take some pics with my cell phone. Here is the right side and left sides of the top:
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| 16 Aug 2008 12:50 AM |
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This is a close-up of the seam at the sink and I've found a new use for my Gorilla Grips: |
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David Gerard
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| 16 Aug 2008 01:08 AM |
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Kowboy, that looks like a brand new unfinished kitchen, why new tops already?  |
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| insomnia crossed with dyslexia and atheist beliefs may lead one to lay awake all night wondering if there really is a "Dog" |
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| 16 Aug 2008 01:23 AM |
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If I could figure out how to get captions under my pictures, I wouldn't have to make a new post every time, sorry.
I have a British tool called a Bullfinch which is a torch that runs off a propane tank. This baby puts out about an eight inch blue flame. Taking the advice of those here and on www.nsraweb.com, I kept it moving and it softened the adhesive in the seam in minutes without discoloration of the stone. I used the dremel where it didn't show and slipped a thin-bladed carpet knife into the seam on the exposed parts with minimal damage.
I found another use for Gorilla Grips. I attached both sets next to each other and placed a 2"x2" against the tile wall. When I applied the wrecking bar between the 2X and the GG's the wall bowed and the GG's schooched, but the top didn't budge. With me picking up the top end and wriggling and my just-out-of-the-Marine-Corp nephew on the bar, we finally got it out.
Despite clamping a straightedge to the back left arm of the right sink piece, again as instructed, it broke. This is not a big deal because only about an inch of the break will be exposed behind the sink when it goes back together. Had the sink hole been cut with a CNC instead of hacked out in the field, my chances would have been better.
We got the left side out but not without breaking the front right arm. I am not concerned, this color looks very forgiving.
The next time I do this, I think I'll dress some 2x4's with my planer to get a dead flat edge and hot melt them to the granite. There was simply not enough purchase for conventional clamping.
If I had a set of those vacuum cut-out supports, I would set them, break the whole top loose as a unit, remove the supports and then break the seam.
I got paid and the lady was happy. She got a bid from her remediation contractor for $950.00 for removal and reinstallation and a local granite fabricator offered her a $400.00 demolition and a $1,500.00 new installation. I don't know if either included the plumbing I did.
I'll be back in a few weeks to reinstall after the cabinets go in. I'll post more pics.
Joe
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| 16 Aug 2008 01:35 AM |
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Posted By David G. on 08/15/2008 8:08 PM Kowboy, that looks like a brand new unfinished kitchen, why new tops already?  I am a member of www.servicemagic.com which is how I was referred to this job. This is the home of my cutomer's eighty-five-year-old mother. Apparently a toilet overflowed, the pump failed simultaneously and granny has a bacterial mess on the first floor. My customer and her husband are the do-it-yourself tile contractors you see on the splash work. There was about two feet of drywall removed from the floor up in the kitchen. This is why some of the cabinets had to be replaced and why the tops had to be removed and reinstalled. Joe |
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Karl Crooks
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| 16 Aug 2008 03:13 PM |
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Nice job Joe ! |
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RESTORE ~ RENEW ~ REJOICE !
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Mark Mihalik
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| 18 Aug 2008 12:06 AM |
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I use the map gas torch to heat the seam and I cut the seam with a razor blad the best I can. I will put the gorilla grips on each side of the sink and use a spreader bar clamp to push the tops apart. With the seam on rail like you showed in the pics I would clamp scrap splash pieces to both sides of the seams (total 8 clamps)to give them added support and keep the heat on while spreading the seam. |
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| Mark Mihalik<br>Counterparts LLC |
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| 18 Aug 2008 02:49 AM |
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Mark:
Thanks for the response, but I can't figure out what you guys who advocate clamping are clamping to.
After I removed the sink, as you looked at the cut-out it was flush with the back of the front cabinet rail. The edge profile was almost as deep as the overhang. Where to clamp on the front?
The back "arms" of the sink cut out were maybe an inch and a quarter wide sitting on a 3/4" rear cabinet rail. There may have been a 1/4" of overhang inside the sink cabinet. Where to clamp on the rear?
What am I not understanding, or was this just a huge cut-out?
Thanks,
Joe
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Mark Mihalik
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| 18 Aug 2008 07:38 PM |
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I see your point. When I did it it was with an undermount sink and it allowed more to clamp to. With that profile, it doesn't look like you could do much on the overhang side either.
If I couldn't get any clamps on anything, (even if it were barely on) I guess I'd try hot melting the bracing to it and hope for the best. |
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| Mark Mihalik<br>Counterparts LLC |
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Andy Graves
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| 23 Aug 2008 12:06 AM |
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How did you get the granite removed from the plywood subtop without breaking the stone?
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FabNet Administrator andy@thefabricatornetwork.com Countertop Company - www.OliveMill.com |
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Karl Crooks
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| 23 Aug 2008 12:20 AM |
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Posted By Andy on 08/22/2008 7:06 PM How did you get the granite removed from the plywood subtop without breaking the stone?
Good question Andy, that would have been my bigest concern. |
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RESTORE ~ RENEW ~ REJOICE !
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| 23 Aug 2008 12:22 AM |
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Posted By Andy on 08/22/2008 7:06 PM How did you get the granite removed from the plywood subtop without breaking the stone?
Andy: This was 3cm siliconed directly on cabinets. I had her sign a no-gaurantee-against-cracking statement right after I walked in the door. She told me every contractor she spoke with would have made her sign the same thing. Joe |
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Andy Graves
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| 23 Aug 2008 05:49 AM |
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Gotcha. I am used to more 2cm and when you try to pull from the plywood it just comes up in small little pieces. We don't do much in 3cm.
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FabNet Administrator andy@thefabricatornetwork.com Countertop Company - www.OliveMill.com |
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| 23 Aug 2008 02:59 PM |
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Andy:
There's just something a little eeewwww about bonding granite and plywood to me. The different expansion and contraction rates have played hell with too many installations as documented on other sites. Maybe it's just my solid surface background and training.
Joe |
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