Wade Stein
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| 29 Oct 2007 12:34 AM |
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We are going to start building Laminate Tops along with the solidsurface tops that we already build. I have done a few in the past, but on a very small scale. I would like to know what tools, tips and the do's and don'ts of doing this from the professionals that do this all the time. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Wade |
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Gene McDonald
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| 29 Oct 2007 12:58 AM |
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Wade, whats going on ? welcome to the fabnet...havent heard of someone wanting to learn Laminate in awhile...cool it does produce some money though...anyway if you dont have any idea about it google online Mica lamination basics, they probal;y have the lists etc, I suggest also buy some shi* mica and start practicing, Mica is alot of practice to me and the most unforgiven material out there...Veneer can be sanded, chips puttied,etc...cant do that with mica, then wait til ya start playing with brushed aluminum...I feel if someone reads a book on airbrushing and knows the book inside and out....please dont trust them on your motorcycle tank...when i first airbrushed....splat all over the place it takes practice...good luck start out with can routers and I like disposable flush bits,if you want to use bearing bits keep em greased or you'll get marks....have fun and if i can help you thru your beginnings let me know....I love mica...... |
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| www.gotgreencountertops.com |
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Tom M
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| 29 Oct 2007 02:36 AM |
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G-d bless ya, Gene. My Dad always said that laminate is the most unforgiving countertop material out there. I think this is especially true compared with solid surface, the most forgiving that I've ever worked with.
Wade, you first need to find out what type of tops you will be selling. If you're going to be a cutting station for postform blanks, the tooling will be a little different than if you fab flatwork.
First tip - learn the scribbled line sanding method, if you are not sure about the accuracy of your sanding. |
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...those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience.
-C.S. Lewis |
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Steve Lefebvre
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| 29 Oct 2007 11:47 AM |
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Tools to start with.
Laminate trimmer with a ball bearing flush cutter.
Laminate trimmer with an adjustable beval edge cutter.
Router with an overhang bearing for hogging off the excess plam.
Laminate files.
Contact cement spray system, don't even think about rolling the stuff. Install an explosion proof fan if you plan on using the flamible stuff. If you go with a pressure pot then be sure to get extra gaskets and disposable pot liners.
Palm and J style rollers for pressing the stuff on.
Router and template for mortising in the counter top connectors.
Contact cement cleaner. There is a difference between cleaner and thinner, get the cleaner. Cleaner breaks the bond of the cement and the excess wipes away with nothing left behind. Thinner will disolve the cement and it will take forever to get the surface clean, it leaves streaks that never seem to go away.
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| Changing the industry, one tool at a time. |
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Wade Stein
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| 30 Oct 2007 01:33 AM |
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What is everybody using for glue? Water Based or the Flamable. |
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Wade Stein
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| 30 Oct 2007 01:35 AM |
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Tom,
I'm not sure what your talking about with the Scribble line sanding.
Wade |
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Wade Stein
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| 30 Oct 2007 01:35 AM |
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Tom,
I'm not sure what your talking about with the Scribble line sanding.
Wade |
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Wade Stein
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| 30 Oct 2007 01:35 AM |
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Tom,
I'm not sure what your talking about with the Scribble line sanding.
Wade |
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kdnoel
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| 30 Oct 2007 02:33 AM |
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Damn I am tired... I am seeing stuff in triple!
Goodnight all...
btw What the hell is scribble what?
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| Kevin D. Noel |
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David Gerard
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| 30 Oct 2007 02:38 AM |
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Kevin, maybe it's your trifocles 
Wade , I think Tom ment scribe line. with the one peice splash . Waterbase glue is for home owners. We all had a thread on this not long ago. Good to see another laminator.... be proud! and wear a resporator. |
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| insomnia crossed with dyslexia and atheist beliefs may lead one to lay awake all night wondering if there really is a "Dog" |
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Tom M
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| 30 Oct 2007 03:02 AM |
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A scribble line is taking a pencil and scribbling a line at the edge of the substrate, on top, where it meets the laminate edging. The two most important things to know about sanding laminate are:
Always cut with the following edge. This way you won't be creating a hard edge that you then run the belt into, often tearing it and needing to replace the edge. This includes scribing a splash to fit a wall. Always "snowplow" when you sand. And:
Always sand the laminate flush to the substrate. If you round over the edge by sanding too heavy on the front, you'll create an area where the laminate won't stick, due to the substrate dipping down. If you sand to far back on the heel of the sander, you'll create a divot line behind the edge, resulting in a weak bond at best, or an actual visible dip where the laminate drops into the trench you just created.
A scribble line will let you keep a check on how you are sanding. If you wear the pencil line at the front, you're dipping to far forward. If you see the back disappearing first, your tipping back on the heel of the sander. You don't have a lot of time with a 3 x 24 and 40 grit belt, so pay attention. Draw the scribble like a tight sinewave. Up/down/up/down, etc. |
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...those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience.
-C.S. Lewis |
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William Turner
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| 30 Oct 2007 03:58 PM |
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Tom is right on the sanding. Quick way to mess up a top. When you get real good all you have to do is watch the glue line to make sure you are flat sanding. |
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William @ TNC Word for the day - LIQUIDITY
Definition - Liquidity is when you look at your retirement fund and wet your pants |
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Tom M
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| 30 Oct 2007 07:20 PM |
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william, thanks for the back up. The glue line works with filing as well. |
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...those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience.
-C.S. Lewis |
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FEDSAWDAVE
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| 31 Oct 2007 12:31 AM |
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Wade, this is the Virutex hand slitter for laminate I mentioned before. Nice tool for cutting strips.
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Tom M
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| 31 Oct 2007 02:40 AM |
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That's the one to buy, for sure. Though I have a nice scar from stripping edging and hitting a crack in the sheet. Drove the edge right to the bone. |
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...those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience.
-C.S. Lewis |
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Cory Johnston
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| 31 Oct 2007 03:03 AM |
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Hey Tom what about bevel edge? Do you make your own? |
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Tom M
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| 31 Oct 2007 03:10 AM |
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Only when we have to. We have the Align-rite system, but don't use it a lot. Kuehn got a lot better over the years.
I'm thinking about trying the Gem-loc. Talked to the guy at the first ISSFA conference I went to, in 97 (I think).
We do now make all of our solid surface edging. I like to apply that much better. |
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...those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience.
-C.S. Lewis |
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Cory Johnston
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| 31 Oct 2007 03:43 AM |
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We like kuehn and wilsonart as well. My fathers other company had a ron blessing machine and loved it but had to use a ton of clamps. No clamps when we buy them. |
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Tom M
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| 31 Oct 2007 04:33 AM |
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Especially the early WilsonArt Perma-edge system. I was in on an early tool buy with that system. Got the best dang bench sander we ever had. The planing routers were absolutely top notch. I call out the amnnbufacturers as much (more) as anyone, but they did this right. The wood edge they offered was the first I ever saw where the t and slot worked as well as intended. It was awesome.
Not as much now, but we still prefer the lam edge (we do very little with wood edges nowadays) over Kuehn. I think it forced Kuehn to get better, and it showed.
And we always use tape. Very few clamps. |
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...those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience.
-C.S. Lewis |
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David Gerard
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| 31 Oct 2007 04:47 AM |
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Tom, when you fabricate ss edging do you completely finish the edging before applying it to the counter face or do you final finish very last ( tape off laminate to protect) . I have done it both ways. I learned the top surface of the ss had better be flat and as straight as possible. One has to be extremly acurate with the slotting for the spline or risk uneveness. The customer of which I'm going after had us do avonite "copper canyon w/ formica black micro dot lam. A very tough fabrication for sure! setting the micro dot line so when trimmed has to be straight. |
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| insomnia crossed with dyslexia and atheist beliefs may lead one to lay awake all night wondering if there really is a "Dog" |
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