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Last Post 29 Dec 2006 03:14 AM by Chris Yaughn. 30 Replies.
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John Mauck
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John Mauck

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20 Dec 2006 11:15 PM
    Our shop uses 3M micron paper for sanding.  Our pattern has been to go 80, 60, 30 and Grey pad (on dark colors we also use 15).   We had a rep from Butler Johnson (distributes Corian) at our shop and he said that we should only need to use 60 and the Maroon Scotch Brite pad for a Matte finnish.  Does anybody use just the two steps and if so how do your tops look when you are finnished.
    FEDSAWDAVE
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    20 Dec 2006 11:54 PM

    jman, I can only speak of what I see our customer base using, and there are variables from shop to shop but, I see a lot of 100 Mic(150g)...to 80 Mic(180g)...to 60 Mic(220g) then Scotchbrite.

    Some skip the 100 Mic and go to 80 then 60 and Scotchbrite. Others go 100 Mic then 60 Mic and Scotchbrite.

    This is for Matte.

    KCWOOD
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    21 Dec 2006 12:52 AM

    JMan, It really depends on the color of the material. The darker the color (I use SIA) you may have you go one more finer grit.  I found it is different if you use the Gem Sander or the Festool. For matte with the gem I go 180-280 then maroon, satin 320-grey. But for darker I'll go to 320-400 and grey to get satin. It all depends, Avonites polyester is different, large particulate is different. I think it is something you just learn as you go along. Some of Staron's Aspen Series would look great with only 180grit ( I don't but you know what I mean)??

    KC

    KCWOOD
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    21 Dec 2006 01:37 AM
    Dave, I have carried back brand after brand from the shows. In my years there is no telling the number of reps that have wanted to save me money. I was introduced to SIA 2 years ago, and started using it on my cabinetry first. (Wood) Never had I used a quality of paper that produced awesome results and retained sanding life so well. . From my wide belts to the Festool dics, I actually saved money by spending more.  I will no doubt hitch a ride with Norm and come and visit your booth for the bottled beverages and return with your samples. I know you only carry superior quality goods, so I will be a hard sale, because cost means nothing, I am after quality, period.  My only question to you is, they going to be 12 or 16oz bottles at your booth?
    FEDSAWDAVE
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    21 Dec 2006 02:01 AM
    My only response is...400+ customers...1 SIA user...You.
    KCWOOD
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    21 Dec 2006 02:42 AM

    Yep, That's what sets me apart from all the rest  

    Karl Crooks
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    21 Dec 2006 02:23 PM
    Dave what brands and grits of sand paper to you sell the most of? To us solid surface guys that is.
    RESTORE ~ RENEW ~ REJOICE !
    FEDSAWDAVE
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    21 Dec 2006 03:19 PM

    Yes, you are original Kelsey...

    Karl, We're all over the place on abrasives as obviously, it's America and people have choices. I can only speak of what people beat our doors down for. In order of volume per manufacture.

    1)3M Micron...2) RHYNO(INDASA ABRASIVE)...3) MIRKA

    al
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    22 Dec 2006 01:22 AM

    Our sanding schedule is

     small particulate tops, 60 micron then red scotchbrite for matte, 80 micron first for edges and seams

    Large particulate colors, same except use 30 micron and grey scotchbrite.

    High gloss for polyesters, same to 30 micron, then Dani got us hooked on 15 micron after the 30 and it almost eliminates the buffing on some colors.

    The darker particulates will be brighter when you use the 30 micron.

    "if it is so safe, why aren't they supporting the testing?"
    FEDSAWDAVE
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    22 Dec 2006 01:29 AM

    15 Micron in what size & backing Al?

    Wanna rock? How bout 9 MICRON.

    Dani Homrich
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    22 Dec 2006 03:31 AM
    jmanbravo1

    I do very few tops in matt, but the ones I do, I start with 60µ wet on the deck and use 80µ then 60µ on the edges, then finish with maroon scotch-brite wet on everything. For a satin finish I go to 30µ wet using one of my CRE pads and finish with maroon scotch-brite wet and a powered cleanser like comet or ajax. For a polished finish I go to 15µ wet using one of my CRE sanding pads, and then I use my PPK polishing system to polish the deck to a mirror finish. I don’t use 9µ any more because my polishing system is much faster than sanding with 9µ. Note: I never use 80µ on the deck, all it does is add more sanding time and more cost to finish the deck as for the cost factor I am talking about wages paid to get the same finish. Your factory finish is already 60µ or P220, so why go backwards to add more work for yourself.

    Dani Homrich

    Changing the way you finish your tops.
    FEDSAWDAVE
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    23 Dec 2006 01:26 AM
    Whos factory finish is 60u (220g) ?? The biggest seller we have is 60u followed by 80u (180g) & 100u (150g). So theory being, 220g IS NOT a factory finish from most factories.
    FEDSAWDAVE
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    23 Dec 2006 01:36 AM

    Here's the bottom line Dani, we deal with customers doing from 1 top per week to 50 tops per week. They rock-n-roll the tops out the door. The 1 or 2 tops per week customer have time to micro-manage their sanding process. The big boys just pump it out the door.

    al
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    23 Dec 2006 02:36 AM

    Uh, 3m pads, Dave, festool  pad, what ever they sent with the darned thing.

    You got 9 micron?  Send me one so I can try it out, that might eliminate polishing entirely.  I've got your catalog by my easy chair at home, in the stack of stuff I've been meaning to read, so I'll place an order soon for some granite fabricating items.

    Thanks for the cool cooler by the way!

    "if it is so safe, why aren't they supporting the testing?"
    KCWOOD
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    23 Dec 2006 04:21 AM

    Dave, Let me clarify my post. I got to SIA because of wood sanding. There is no doubt in my mind, it will out sand and present a superior finish on wood. When I see some sanding on some high end custom jobs I just shake my head and wonder if they have ever had an eye checkup. The SIA Blue, is a bit higher, and in comparison to your products, probably are overpriced when comparing apples to apples. One brand you carry, the grit seems to be a little different than what I am accustomed to using, but with any brand, it is all about learning what it takes to acheive the desired result.  So with that said, It's not that I am really looking at switching brands, but when I read about coolers and flying monkeys... it makes one start scratching their heads! 

    Happy Holidays Dave, Thanks for all the laughs!!  KC

    FEDSAWDAVE
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    23 Dec 2006 02:22 PM

    Whoops....yours are coming Kelsey.

    Look, I DO NOT discount anyones sanding methods or choice of brand. If it works for you and your're achieving the finish desired,and most importantly, making money then keep on keepin on. I only suggest what I see working for the majority. That does not make the minoritys methods wrong. Like I've stated in the past, 2 shops across the street from each other probably have 2 differant sanding methods. I've seen it countless times. I also see shop A hire a guy away from shop B and the guy has no clue as to their sanding methods and wants to bring his way to that shop. That usually muddies up the waters real good.

    Look at this months issue of Surface Fabrication Magazine. The company that won Best Overall Design? One of our local customers. Not a day went by that ol Gene the fabricator was not in our shop discussing methods for this and methods for that as it relates to that project. He built it, we just made suggestions on achieving the desired finish above and beyond what he would normally do. He took #1.

    Dani Homrich
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    23 Dec 2006 08:28 PM
    (Edit by Andy - Admin) I have been teaching sanding seminars for years, not only at the Solidsurface Expo, but for Avonite, Florenata, and ITEC, when your sanding credentials become as respected as mine I will listen to you. I can teach sanding procedures for any Brand or any method, I have done them all. I know what works and what doesn’t and it doesn’t matter to me if a fabricator dry sands or wet sands I can still teach them how to achieve an excellent finish. As for the factory finish maybe you should do a little research before you open you mouth this is not 1987 anymore, besides let’s be a little wise, even if the factory finish was 180g or 80µ would not 60µ be the next sanding procedure.

    Happy Holidays,

    Dani


    KC,

    I agree with you. Pay a little more for a highly refined product and you will save much greater cost in labor to achieve a great looking finish. Sandpaper cost is a very small proportion of the cost to finish a sheet of material. No fabricator ever spends $50 on sandpaper to sand out a sheet of solidsurface, but they could easily spend $50 in labor if the sheet was not sanded correctly.

    I have had to refinish countless high end jobs done by large shops, what a mess. Their claim to fame was there Guru $$$ sandpaper salesman told them how to finish. It is all about how much sandpaper can I sell you and if you spend over $150 I will include a free flight jacket. Why is it they are always giving away a free gift, if the product is so great why not give away more sandpaper?

    Happy Holidays KC, I am enjoying the laughs also

    Dani
    Changing the way you finish your tops.
    FEDSAWDAVE
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    24 Dec 2006 02:08 AM

    Darn, I missed that last part about Dani "not selling sandpaper to make a living". No Dani, you sell PVC sprinkler parts formed in to clamps that I've NEVER seen in ANY shop I've been in. Although, in your little contest about a free dollar 99 you state something to the effect of "for those of you not using them and they are few" LOL LOL

    Can I enter the contest as my "creative way" of using them would be for earrings!

    This site AINT ISSFA !

    Joe Corlett
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    24 Dec 2006 04:44 AM

    Dave said:

     

    “…you would realise that 100 micron (150g) is an absolute must as a 1st step.”

     

    Dave, would you agree that the folks at DuPont, the inventors and original patent holders on solid surface, may have a clue as to what is and/or isn’t a good sanding procedure? Their preferences seem to align with Dani’s more than yours. Hey, don’t believe me, read

    ‘em yourself:

     

    http://www.corian.com/corian/docume...corian.pdf

     

    “Quite frankly, I don't care how many seminars you've taught.”

     

    You may not care but I and many others do. Dani was at the first solid surface show and has probably been to every one since. He has graciously shared his knowledge with all who have asked, in a booth, class, seminar or bulletin board and continues to do so. His only compensation for these efforts has been the gratitude of fabricators like me. We are collective in our debt. You seem like a nice enough guy Dave, but you appear to be a relative newcomer to us, despite your twenty two years in the business.

     

    “May I suggest that as a onesy, twosy top fabricator, you have no idea what it takes for a large fabrication shop to ramp up for a 200 top order.”

     

    Dave, may I suggest you read the other posts before you type:

     

    Dani posted:

    I received 17 sheets of Hi-Macs, no Hi-Macs is not made in Michigan, for a job the end of this November and the factory finish was fantastic.”

     

    A 17 sheet job does not a “onesy, twosy” fabricator make. If anyone knows how to crank ‘em out the door efficiently, it’s Dani Homrich. er talkin’ through yer hat, Dave.

     

    “No Dani, you sell PVC sprinkler parts formed in to clamps that I've NEVER seen in ANY shop I've been in.”

     

    Again, I suggest you read the other posts before you type and get out more. I just read another positive testimonial about Dani’s polishing system on the fabnet which I couldn’t find again. I use his clamps and here’s another guy that does:

     

    http://www.thefabricatornetwork.com...fault.aspx

     

    I’d post more examples, but I wouldn’t want to make this a fifty page thread.

     

     

    Dani has invented a cove sanding pad that works terrific, I think the patent is pending. Of course he holds the patent for the popular and revolutionary Dani Clamps. How many patents do you own, Dave?

     

    I thought so,

     

    Joe

     

     

    John Cristina
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    24 Dec 2006 12:04 PM

    Dave,

       You have never been in my shop, even my old one, yes the office but not the shop.  My guys were reluctant to use the Dani Clamps, but after a couple times realized that alot of th things we can clamp with them you just cant do with other clamps.  We dont use them on everything, but for coves and sinks they cant be beat.  My guys find more things to use them on every day. 

       As far as sanding and finishing goes, we are going to be one of the big guys in SW Florida soon, but I am familiar with both small operations and large.  For the large guys in our area, most of there finishing sucks, period.  We just got a very large contractor away from one the big "C" fabricators in our area becuase of his finishing and service record.  The contractors other fabricator could not handle darker colors which is what alot of his customers were leaning to.  We repaired a job with a crack and refinished the entire job properly as a free sample two weeks ago, now we do all his work.  While it was just a matte finish for a dark color it looked much better than those made by  the other company.  Much of what I learned about finishing came from Dani either directly or from someone that learned from him years ago, and will put my work up against any body's.  These big shops are good with glacier white but give them blackberry ice or nocturne and they shut down.

    Have a Merry Christmas every one,

    John Cristina

    "If you don't know where you are going, you will wind up somewhere else" - Berra
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