Travis H
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| 17 Nov 2008 01:33 PM |
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Hello everyone, long time no talk. Sorry I havnt been around in a while. The market has been kinda slow so we are spending all of our time chasing work. No time for the rif raf.
Any way I have a shower to do but the customers drain hole is 2" to close to the wall for a standard shower base. In any case I need to build one out of solid surface. I have never done this before and wonder if someone could maybe get me on the right track.
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Travis
CounterWise, Inc. |
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Cap
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| 17 Nov 2008 02:55 PM |
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Travis We have done quit a few of our own shower pans
I made a box that I could form the base to the drain. Has worked well for all sizes and shapes and off sets of drain holes.Call me I will try to talk you through it(208)237-4428. |
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Norm Walters
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| 17 Nov 2008 04:15 PM |
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Travis, I would move the drain, but that's just me. You are talking about 30 minutes worth of work. |
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Norm
www.normwaltersconstruction.com |
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Kowboy
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| 17 Nov 2008 05:19 PM |
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Posted By Norm Walters on 17 Nov 2008 04:15 PM
Travis, I would move the drain, but that's just me. You are talking about 30 minutes worth of work. Norm: My thought exactly. That is if it's PVC. Joe |
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| Heat not a furnace for your foe so hot
That it do singe yourself.
- William Shakespeare |
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Norm Walters
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| 17 Nov 2008 05:26 PM |
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Joe, even if it's cast iron, just cut it, boot it, and convert to pvc from there. |
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Norm
www.normwaltersconstruction.com |
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Andy
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| 18 Nov 2008 12:33 AM |
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Travis,
What's up?
I would move the drain first. If not possible, call Chad. He has talked to me about this and sounds pretty straight forward.
Let us know how it turns out. Maybe post a picture or two.
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FabNet Administrator
andy@thefabricatornetwork.com
Countertop Company - www.OliveMill.com |
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The SS Tech Guy
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| 18 Nov 2008 06:58 AM |
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Travis,
Ex-plumber, move the drain. Unless they really messed up the original install, you should have 2" of swing in the trap. |
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| Bill W.
bwolle@msn.com |
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Travis H
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| 18 Nov 2008 09:15 AM |
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Moving the drain was my first thought. Keep in mind the drain is in the basement and thus in concrete. My biggest fear was breaking out concrete and breaking the pipe.
On the other hand, move the drain or not I think the customer would be happier with a solid surface pan rather than some cheapy junk from Home Depot. I was thinking it would look pretty cool all coved in as one peace and easier to keep clean in the future |
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Travis
CounterWise, Inc. |
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Norm Walters
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| 18 Nov 2008 03:55 PM |
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Travis, If they will pay for a solid surface pan that's great. I wouldn't worry about breaking the pipe, it is under the slab. Even if you break it, you will be much more careful when you open the slab up further to fix the break  |
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Norm
www.normwaltersconstruction.com |
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The SS Tech Guy
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| 19 Nov 2008 08:38 AM |
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LOL  Good one Norm! |
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| Bill W.
bwolle@msn.com |
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Travis H
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| 22 Nov 2008 10:54 AM |
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Thanks for the vote of confidence Norm. lol |
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Travis
CounterWise, Inc. |
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Norm Walters
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| 22 Nov 2008 05:42 PM |
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Travis, chipping a slab isnt' that big of a deal. I do alot of tub to shower conversions. Not only does the drain have to be moved, you also have to convert a 1 1/2" drain to a 2" drain, which is required for a shower. I have a small Bosch chipping hammer, works great.
Next month I am removing a garden tub and moving the drain and supply lines six feet for a claw foot tub. My plumber does all the connections, but I sometimes do the grunt work to save some cash. |
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Norm
www.normwaltersconstruction.com |
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Travis H
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| 24 Nov 2008 10:06 AM |
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Norm, Now that you mention it, I do believe the pipe is 1.5". Your saying that needs to be changed to a 2" ?
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Travis
CounterWise, Inc. |
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The SS Tech Guy
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| 24 Nov 2008 02:52 PM |
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Yes, code is 1 1/2" for tub drain and 2" for shower drain. |
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| Bill W.
bwolle@msn.com |
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Norm Walters
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| 24 Nov 2008 03:06 PM |
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What Bill said.  The only time I was able to get away with not converting to a 2" drain and moving it to the center, was in a multi story condo that stated in it's condo docs that drain lines couldn't be moved, and after checking with the local bldg. dept. they did have an exclusion to the code. |
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Norm
www.normwaltersconstruction.com |
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Reuben
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| 24 Nov 2008 05:36 PM |
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Whatta you do if they ran 1 1/2" pipe all the way and did not convert from 2" to 1 1/2" for the tub drain? |
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Norm Walters
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| 24 Nov 2008 06:35 PM |
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Reuben, it normally always connects to a 3" pipe after the trap (going backwards). It's just a matter of working your way back to the 3" pipe. |
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Norm
www.normwaltersconstruction.com |
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Reuben
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| 24 Nov 2008 11:17 PM |
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So your saying that if the 1 1/2" pipe runs for 15 feet, then one is to replace the entire length?
Just asking cause I have seen some runs done that long before and then I have seen times where they have that situation and they just used a reducer. |
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Norm Walters
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| 24 Nov 2008 11:33 PM |
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Reuben, I'm not saying it won't work, the water will just drain slower. An example is a bathroom sink, you should be able to turn the hot and cold on all the way, and no water should accumulate in the bowl, if it does, then something is wrong. The same goes with a shower, you shouldn't be standing in water while taking a shower. |
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Norm
www.normwaltersconstruction.com |
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Lenny E
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| 25 Nov 2008 01:33 AM |
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Posted By Travis H on 17 Nov 2008 01:33 PM
Hello everyone, long time no talk. Sorry I havnt been around in a while. The market has been kinda slow so we are spending all of our time chasing work. No time for the rif raf.
Any way I have a shower to do but the customers drain hole is 2" to close to the wall for a standard shower base. In any case I need to build one out of solid surface. I have never done this before and wonder if someone could maybe get me on the right track.
Hi Travis, Fabricating a shower pan is time consuming and hard work. Did you ever think of buying a precast pan? Its a one piece deal, ribbed and cast , they have different sizes and different drain orientations, it may be an option for you. It may save you money and time, and after all, time is money. If you are interested I can forward you some leads. Please advise. All the Best, |
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